AQUARIUM SETUP GUIDE

Starting a new aquarium can be daunting, but we’re here to help. Click through this guide to find tips and tricks on how to best start your aquarist journey.

FILTERS

  • A great option for small to medium-sized tanks which are not overstocked. Most have an adjustable flow rate, and there is plenty of space for customized biomedia.

    STARTUP

    1. Installation can vary per product; use the product’s instruction manual when setting up the filter to guarantee best functionality!

    2. Use the included media in your new kit, or customize the back chambers with media options like filter floss, sponge, ceramic rings, crushed coral, carbon, etc. We stock bulk filter media!

    3. Fill the tank and “prime” the filter with conditioned water before turning on the pump. Do not run the filter without any water as it will burn-out the pump.

    4. Once primed and and set in place on the tank’s rim, plug the filter into an outlet and adjust the flow rate according to your fishes’ needs (if your filter has a flow control).

    MAINTENANCE

    1. Clean the filter media under warm tap water when it’s noticeably dirty, or replace the media and add new floss/sponge. Change the media roughly every 1-2 weeks depending on stocking and feeding, or change the media when you go to do a water change.

  • A great option for fish which prefer low water flow, and it doubles as an airstone. Best used in smaller aquariums.

    STARTUP

    1. Measure the total length of airline tubing needed to run from the bottom of the tank to the air pump.

    2. Add the Check Valve; these keep water from back-siphoning into the air pump should the power go out. To install: Cut airline tube at about 2/3 the length and splice in a Check Valve to reconnect the tubing.

    3. Connect one end of the tubing to the air pump and the other to the sponge filter.

    4. Place the sponge filter in the tank and then plug the air pump into the wall.

    MAINTENANCE

    1. Clean about every 4 weeks by squeezing out the sponge under warm tap water. Once the water runs clear, squeeze any excess tap water from the sponge and add the sponge back to the tank. Do not allow the sponge to completely dry out.

  • A filter which resides out of view, typically underneath the stand or behind the tank. It’s a powerful filter for any tank and is the most effective filtration method for larger or overstocked aquariums.

    STARTUP

    1. Installation can vary per product; use the product’s instruction manual when setting up the filter to guarantee best functionality!

    2. Use the included media in your new kit, or customize the chambers with media options like filter floss, sponge, ceramic rings, crushed coral, carbon, etc. We stock bulk filter media!

    3. Fill the canister with conditioned water either manually or with a primer pump before turning the canister on. Do not run the filter without any water as it will burn-out the pump.

    4. Once primed and and set in place, plug the filter into an outlet and wait for the air to push out of the outflow tube.

    MAINTENANCE

    1. Clean the filter media under warm tap water when going through a water change; the main media to clean is the first chamber as most of the gunk will build up there. A full canister cleaning is recommended at least quarterly, but it is not required every time a water change is done.

  • Some aquariums like the Fluval Flex and Spec Kits come with a filter already built into the tank. No filter decision needed!

    STARTUP

    1. Use the included biomedia in a new kit, or customize the back chambers with media options like filter floss, sponge, ceramic rings, crushed coral, carbon, etc. We stock bulk filter media!

    2. Fill the tank and filter chambers with conditioned water before plugging in the filter. Do not run the filter without water as the pump will burn-out.

    MAINTENANCE

    1. Clean the filter media under warm tap water when it’s noticeably dirty. Change the media roughly every 1-2 weeks depending on stocking and feeding, or change the media when you do a water change.

SUBSTRATE

  • Made from a mix of soil and volcanic ash, aquasoil provides an ideal environment for aquatic plants while also having optimal quality for beneficial bacteria.

    Aquasoils will naturally lower the pH, so keep that in mind if your tap water tends to have a lower pH already.

    Not all substrates need to be rinsed prior to adding to the tank, so make sure to check the bag’s instructions before starting your scape!

  • With varying sizes, shapes, and colors, gravel is a staple in the fishkeeping hobby for good reason.

    Gravel provides plenty of aeration for beneficial bacteria, and its heavy nature allows for easy cleaning with a siphon.

    Depending on the style of gravel, some types could be sharper and therefore more harmful toward bottom-feeders and scavengers.

    Not all substrates need to be rinsed prior to adding to the tank, so make sure to check the bag’s instructions before starting your scape!

  • From riverbed to ocean floor, sand is a great, lightweight substrate reminiscent of what you’d find in nature.

    Sand has a soft texture that allows for bottom-feeders and scavengers to safely search for food without risking damage to their barbels.

    When it comes to cleaning the tank, siphoning can be a bit tougher due to the lighter nature of the sand, so make sure to kink the hose as you siphon water out!

    Not all substrates need to be rinsed prior to adding to the tank, so make sure to check the bag’s instructions before starting your scape!

FOR

INSIDER TIPS

TANK STARTUP

  • If you have substrate, hardscape, or filter media from an already established tank, adding some or any of those items to your new tank can help speed up the aquarium cycling process by introducing beneficial bacteria to get you through the nitrogen cycle.

  • Adding a pinch of food to a newly cycling tank will provide ammonia to the beneficial bacteria colonies as the food breaks down. This will help to kickstart the bacteria colonies into growing larger more quickly.

  • Tannins are an organic compound released by wood, leaves, and cones in a fishtank. It’s harmless to fish, but it will stain the water a brown color that is not permanent. Tannins will naturally lower pH and have antifungal properties.

    If you’re worried about driftwood adding tannins to your tank water, then boil the driftwood to rid of a lot of the tannins before adding the driftwood to the tank.

    If the driftwood in your tank is releasing tannins that you don’t want, then adding a product like Purigen to the filter will help pull the tannins out of the water directly. Otherwise, tannins will slowly dissipate as you perform water changes.

LIGHTS

  • These lights attach to the rim of the tank and extend over top of the water. They tend to be better for tanks of 15 gallons or less due to larger lights causing weight-stress on the aquarium glass.

    Clip-On lights can be used along with a glass lid to prevent fish from jumping out or pets and children from getting in.

  • One of the more common modern light styles, LED Bars provide great coverage on small to large size tanks and are held up by adjustable mounting legs.

    LED lights in general produce less heat and are more efficient than their counterparts. There are also spectrum options from full to plant-growth to coral support.

    LED Bar lights can be used along with a glass lid to prevent fish from jumping out or pets and children from getting in.

  • Hood lights are a classic for aquariums and typically hold a fluorescent bulb, though many modern Hood lights now utilize an LED bulb.

    Hood lights are made of plastic and service as both a light and a lid, aiding to keep fish in the tank or pets and children out of the tank.

  • Freshwater and Saltwater aquariums require different lighting to promote natural ecosystems and/or the growth of live plants and corals.

    Freshwater, non-planted tanks are fine to have purely white light. With a planted tank, it is important to have both red and blue spectrum lighting available as plants need these for processes like photosynthesis. If your light has a blue-light setting for nighttime, do not keep it on all night as this will still contribute to algae growth.

    Saltwater tanks without coral are okay to have just white light, but if you do plan to keep corals, then a light which provides actinic (blue/UV) lighting will be required. Mixing white light and actinic light will provide the best combination overall, corals or not, when looking for the extra pop of color in a saltwater tank!

HARDSCAPE

  • Driftwood is very common in most habitats in nature, so having it in your tank will help to simulate most fishes’ natural environment.

    Most pieces of driftwood will float at first and will need to be attached to a rock, weight, or spray-foamed into place. After about a month, expect the wood to water-log and stay submerged, no boiling required.

    Spiderwood often grows a layer of white fungus (aka biofilm) that will eventually fall off. This is normal and is harmless to the fish, plants, and micro-biome. Fish and invertebrates will likely snack on it, and you can easily siphon it out if you don’t like the look. This process will only happen once, and you likely will see algae growth in its place.

    HOW TO ATTACH & SINK DRIFTWOOD

    Here’s a list of the easiest ways to attach, weigh down, and/or secure driftwood inside a tank, listed by least to most permanent.

    1. Zip Tie (all sizes of wood, attach to rock or other wood)

    2. Fish-Safe Superglue (smaller pieces of wood, attach to rock)

    3. Fish-Safe Epoxy (all sizes of wood; attach to rock, other wood, or tank glass)

    4. Fish-Safe Silicone (all sizes of wood; attach to rock, other wood, or tank glass)

    5. Fish-Safe Expanding Foam + Silicone (all sizes of wood; attach to rock, other wood, or tank glass)

  • Whether it be the size of pea gravel or stepping stones, rock is nearly guaranteed to be in every fishes’ natural environment. Many cichlids and bottom-dwellers love having rocky caves to call home!

    Most pieces of rock will need to be rinsed under tap water to remove dust prior to adding to the tank. The dust is harmless to any creatures in the tank, but it could cause cloudiness in the water for a day or so.

    Always use caution when handling rock, especially Dragon Stone, as it can be sharp, brittle, and very dusty.

  • Artificial decor is okay to use in an aquarium as long as it’s made for use underwater.

    If using artificial decor, make sure it has soft edges to avoid fin or scale damage to fish.

    Sometimes using artificial plants is necessary as the fish being kept would eat the live ones otherwise. They’re also easy to maintain, but they won’t provide any benefits like waste consumption and oxygen production.